Monday, 16 June 2008

Step 7 - The Final finishing

To drill the holes for the fins, I made sure that my markings ran parallel with the boards centre and that the fins at each end where in a straight line. Using a 2mm metal drill, I drilled the pilot holes. Working with fibreglass you are apparently meant to treat it as if working with metal (drills, sawing filling etc). Once the holes where drilled it was time to sand the board.

I used a 240 grit sand paper and my orbital sander. A random orbital sander will give you a better finish. When sanding I used a dust mask and the vacuum attachment on the sander to keep the fibreglass dust to a minimum and out of my lungs. Once the board was smooth I decided to give it a few coats of paint. Since this is my prototype board and the first board I am making I am not going over the top and spending loads of cash on top notch quality paint. So standard body work paint was applied (if this works on cars it will be fine for my board).

Once I have my board tested and I am finally happy with future boards and their quality I shall invest in some good graphics. Once all painted and the paint had dried it was off to the bath to wash it all down and to check if the board floats. I don't want to loose the board to the ocean on its first outing. While it was in the bath I used this time to go over the board with a 600grit sand paper and really make the board nice and smooth. I sanded the board while it was underwater which took care of all the fine dust issues.

Now the board was finally finished it was time to attach all the hardware. For my hardware I used Dakine Boost II deck pads with Dakine Control foot straps, a Slingshot grab handle and Maui Magic Mystic fins to finish the board off. Now I just need to get out in the water and test the board out.

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